From mid-December onwards, taro sections begin to appear in supermarkets and markets across Niigata Prefecture, and some stores even have "noppé" sections stocked with carrots, konnyaku, bamboo shoots, ginkgo nuts, scallops, and kelp.

"Noppe" from Niigata is a beloved New Year's dish.

In this final "SAKE TOPICS" of the year, we will introduce "Noppe," Niigata's proud New Year's dish, and the local sake that goes well with it. We will also touch on regional characteristics such as New Year's fish.

Enjoy the deliciousness of sake along with its food story.

Reiwa Niigata "Noppe" Map

The Agency for Cultural Affairs has been carrying out this program since 3."Model Project for Creating and Promoting Food Culture Stories"This initiative aims to research, pass on and disseminate the stories of food culture in each prefecture, and to turn regional cuisine and locally beloved dishes into intangible folk cultural assets in the future.

In this project, which runs until the end of March 6, the Niigata Food Library, a non-profit organization, is conducting a thorough survey of the Niigata "Noppe" of the Reiwa era, as well as passing it on and spreading the word. This website was created based on the results of a survey of over 7 people conducted in August this year, analyzed by Niigata University of Food and Agriculture professor Michikazu Hiramatsu using his own unique method.Reiwa Niigata "Noppe" Map

The regional characteristics of "noppe" are also recorded in "Niigata Meals" (Nobunkyo, 1985), a book compiled by leading Niigata food culture researcher Homma Nobuo and others that records Niigata meals from the Taisho period (XNUMX-XNUMX) recreated in homes. Since then, Homma and many other people, as well as government agencies, organizations, and schools, have conducted research on Niigata's "noppe."

These results revealed differences between the upper, middle and lower eastern regions, that there is no "Noppe" in Sado or Itoigawa, and that the way the cake is cut and the number of ingredients change depending on whether it is a celebratory or condolence gift.

Does regionality still exist in today's world, where people are moving around a lot?

The results of this study showed that regional differences were more pronounced than expected, and that the results could be broadly divided into four groups.

What they all have in common is that they are stews that make the most of the slimy texture of high-quality locally grown taro. Another feature of "Noppe" is that, because they are home-cooked dishes, the details reflect the preferences of each household.

Local sake that goes well with each group's characteristics

We're a team

In the central areas of Kaetsu and Chuetsu, such as Niigata City and Nagaoka City, scallops and dried shiitake mushrooms are used in the stock, and it is a stew that makes the most of the stock. It can be eaten as is, chilled, warmed, and in many other ways. It seems that most restaurants serve it cold.

It is no exaggeration to say that you are tasting the dashi stock, so we recommend a light, refreshing sake from each region to go with its delicate flavor. 

This area has 2 sake breweries in total, including Aga-machi (2 breweries), Gosen-shi (15 breweries), Niigata-shi (1 breweries), Yahiko-mura (1 brewery), Sanjo-shi (3 brewery), Kamo-shi (16 breweries), Nagaoka-shi (2 breweries), and Ojiya-shi (42 breweries), which is roughly half of the total in the prefecture. Among them, there are differences such as areas that use salmon, areas that use chicken, areas that use only root vegetables and fish paste, areas that garnish with salmon roe, and areas that garnish with totomame (salmon roe that has been lightly boiled and salted). Depending on the area, you might want to try changing the type of sake to pair with it.

There are various pairings of sake and food, including "harmonious pairing," which involves pairing things of the same type, and "third flavor," which involves pairing things of different types to bring out and enjoy a new flavor.

In the Dashi Jiman Group, we enjoy the deliciousness that comes from harmony.

 

 Team Toromi

This is the area where the thickening process is done with potato starch at the end, which has been said to be a major factor in the diversity of "Noppe." As in the past, the Joetsu area was grouped together this time as well. There are a total of 12 breweries in this area: Joetsu City (3 breweries), Myoko City (3 breweries), and Kashiwazaki City (18 breweries).

Incidentally, there seem to be many areas in this region where thickening with potato starch is referred to as "kuzu wo kaku," an old-fashioned expression.

 The thick, Chinese-style "Noppe" matches well with the rich flavor that is traditionally a feature of local sake in the Joetsu area. It's a perfect match.

This group of sake is often eaten warm, so it's a good idea to pair it with warm sake. It's also fun to try different combinations at different temperatures, from lukewarm to extremely warm. Let's find your favorite combination.

We recommend pairing a refreshing drink of the opposite type to the dish to reset yourself and then enjoy the next dish.

Just like Noppe, the appeal of Niigata sake is its diversity. Even within a single brewery, a wide variety of flavors are produced. Why not try a type of sake you've never tried before from your favorite brewery?

 

Team "Tsukudakusan"

This group mainly consists of the northern part of the prefecture, where in some areas it is known by other names such as "Konomo" or "Daikai" instead of "Noppe." In Murakami, some households make both "Noppe" and "Daikai."

A total of nine breweries fall into this group: Murakami City (2 breweries), Shibata City (3 breweries), and Agano City (XNUMX breweries).

The stock varies from region to region, using scallops and from dried sardines and kelp, but it is characterized by its many ingredients. In Shibata City, "Konomo" is made with fish paste alone, and many households use several types of fish paste such as chikuwa, naruto, fried tofu, thick tofu, and kurumafu. Some regions use locally grown taro, which has a strong slimy texture, and although they do not use potato starch, you can enjoy the natural thickness of the taro.

Sake is versatile and can be paired with any dish. You'll want to try different types of sake with one dish, such as light, savory, and sour.

 

Team "Daikon & Alias"

Previous surveys have revealed that the main characteristics of Niigata's "Noppe" are that it does not contain daikon radish, but is a stew that makes use of the slimy texture of the taro, and that daikon radish is not used because it smells bad when the dish cools.

However, in this survey, areas that use daikon radish were grouped together, including areas where "noppe" is not used, such as Sado City and Itoigawa City.

In Itoigawa City, Tokamachi City, and Tsunan Town, many people answered that other stews such as "kokusho", "imoni", and "kenchinjiru" were the same as "noppe". Therefore, this team needs to differentiate itself from the above three groups.

The team consists of 5 breweries in total: Itoigawa City (3 breweries), Minamiuonuma City (2 breweries), Uonuma City (1 breweries), Yuzawa Town (2 brewery), Tokamachi City (5 breweries), Tsunan Town (20 breweries) and Sado City (XNUMX breweries). 

We are currently conducting on-site research into their nicknames, how they are perceived as "Noppe," and what they have in common, but like the group above, one thing we can say is that we hope they will enjoy the local cuisine and local sake of the area together.

In Sado, simmered dishes are known as "nishime." The simmered dishes made for the festival in April are also served on the dinner tables during Obon and the New Year holidays, when many people gather. Each ingredient is large, and the taste of home cooking, full of flavor, makes you want to enjoy the combination of each ingredient with the local sake.

 

As part of our research project, we are currently collecting "Noppe" from your households.

Once you make Noppe, please post a photo along with the recipe, any special features you've made, and any stories you've enjoyed.

Create and post your own Niigata "Noppe"

Local sake that goes well with New Year's dishes

Not only "Noppe," but New Year's fish also have regional characteristics within the prefecture.

The Itoigawa River is the border between salmon in the east and yellowtail in the west (including Sado).

 

"Tokubetsu Junmai SAKE x SAKE Taiyouzakari" by Taiyo Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.

"Manotsuru Junmai Brease" by Obata Shuzo Co., Ltd.

As for local sake, Taiyo Sake Brewery Co., Ltd. in Murakami City, a castle town in the north of the prefecture, has commercialized "Yamahai Tokubetsu junmai Sake x Sake Taiyouzakari," which pairs well with salmon, while Obata Shuzo Co., Ltd. in Sado City has commercialized "Manosuru Junmai Brease," which pairs well with yellowtail.

The filling of the familiar konbumaki kelp roll is salmon in Shimotsuke and Chuetsu, but herring fillet in Joetsu and Sado. When you learn about the diversity of food within the prefecture, the food and local sake you taste will have a deeper flavor and taste even better.

This year's New Year's holiday, let's enjoy a variety of combinations of local food and local sake in search of new delicious flavors.

 

Thank you for reading "SAKE TOPICS" again this year. We hope to continue to deliver articles that will let you know about the appeal of Niigata sake in an enjoyable way. Thank you for your continued support. We wish you a happy new year.

 

Photography: Fumio Iwamura, Tomoko Takahashi Photo cooperation: Obata Shuzo Co., Ltd., Taiyo Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.

 

 

Neil Takahashi Mariko

"R from Niigata""Cushu"issue

          (NPO Niigata Food LibraryChairman)