Share this article
Cancel ✕
Column 2021.12.27

Good compatibility!Niigata's local cuisine and Niigata sake


The definition of "local cuisine" is difficult.

This is because there is no clear line between the side dishes of the household that we eat every day.

I often wonder, "Is this a local dish?"

I once asked Mr. Nobuo Honma, a food culture researcher who is the main owner of the library of "Honma Bunko Niigata Food Library", "What is local cuisine?"

According to Dr. Homma--

"Basically, it is a characteristic dish that has been made using ingredients obtained in that climate and has been supported and handed down by the people of the region for a long time. As a representative of Niigata, There are "Noppe", "Salmon dishes" in Murakami, "Sasazushi" in Joetsu region, "Nai" in Chuetsu region, etc. "


Speaking of "being loved and handed down in the area for many years," the same goes for local sake in various parts of the prefecture.I realized again that it is natural that local cuisine and Niigata sake go well together.


Especially during the year-end and New Year holidays, there are many households in Niigata that produce a large amount of "Noppe" and "Kiriboshi daikon" even when it comes to Reiwa.The Honmachi market in Niigata is crowded with people who buy materials such as adductor muscles, dried shiitake mushrooms, dried radishes, and taro.The year-end and New Year holidays are also the season when we are most conscious of local cuisine.

So, this time, I asked people who are involved in Niigata sake in various ways how to enjoy local cuisine and Niigata sake.


If you want to match it with the standard year-end and New Year holidays

The representative "Noppe" is the long-established sake store "Higashibori-dori, Chuo-ku, Niigata City".Ikejo HotelIt is Mr. Masami Ikenori.Mr. Masami is qualified as a "master of gold" in Niigata sake.

"It is said that local sake in the prefecture has different characteristics in Joetsu, Chuetsu, and Kaetsu. A dish with a taste that suits the working environment of the area created by the difference in the natural environment and a sake with a taste that goes well with that dish. Seems to have been favored. "For example, in the Joetsu region, strong-seasoned dishes are preferred, and there are relatively many sakes with a taste that is comparable to that.

"When you think about it, <Noppe> also differs depending on the region," says Ikenori.

Noppe in each area of ​​the prefecture.Joetsu (right), Chuetsu (top), Kaetsu (left).The feature of Joetsu is that it is scraped at the end (hardened with potato starch).


I asked his wife, Yoko, about the Ikenori family's "Noppe".

"Dashi is taken with scallops and dried shiitake mushrooms. Satoimo, carrots, burdock, bamboo shoots, konnyaku, lotus root, kamaboko, salmon are included, and how much is put at the end. It's more like juice. I hate my husband. , Ginnan and lily root, Kwai cannot be included (laughs) "

<Noppe> in Niigata City (from "Niigata Side Dish" <Open Port Building>).The Ikenori family's "Noppe" is close to this

At the Ikenori family, the local sake that goes with Noppe is "I make it at the end of the year and eat it for the first time in the New Year, so I also want to welcome the New Year with good sake, so I make it a sacred sake every year.Ishimoto Sake Brewery Co., Ltd."Koshinokambai Daiginjo Gachon" will be given and you will eat "Noppe" with the sake, "says Masami.


"Since you can taste it with dashi, Daiginjoshu, which doesn't insist on the aroma and taste too much, suits you," says Yoko.It seems that both food and sake can be enjoyed "cold".

Mr. and Mrs. Ikenori, who support the sake culture of the Furumachi area as a long-established sake store, Mr. and Mrs. Yoko

Another classic at the end of the year, "Kiriboshi daikon," was given by a culinary researcher who has a qualification as a sake master and is also an honorary ambassador for Niigata sake.Yuka NakajimaMr.

"Kiriboshi daikon has a crispy texture. It's interesting that the cutting method and the degree of sweetness differ depending on the maker."The objective local cuisine criticism unique to Mr. Nakajima, who was born in Osaka and moved to Niigata when he got married, is interesting.

The local sake that goes well with this dish "is very compatible with the dry Junmai Ginjo, which is slightly warmer than the human skin. I think it is the perfect combination when you want to drink slowly and carefully." Mr. Miss.Just listening to the story makes me want to give it a try.


If you want to combine it with local cuisine in a broad sense

Both the couple are Niigata Sake "Gold masterHideo Watanabe and Ms. Yukiko, who have the qualification of "" and enjoy the compatibility of Niigata sake and cooking at home as studying every day (laughs), propose local sake that matches the ingredients of Niigata from autumn to winter. Did it.

Cooking using seasonal ingredients, which is a blessing of the climate, can be said to be one of the local dishes.

"With <Ginnan> from Muramatsu, Gosen City,Kinshihai Shuzo Co., Ltd."Echigo Toji / Dry" Kanzake is a combination that you can easily enjoy from autumn to winter. "I want to enjoy the blessings of the Ginnan production area known as the "Golden Village" near the famous Jikoji Temple with local sake.


Next, I introduced the combination of the castle town and Murakami city in the north of the prefecture.

"<Salmon pickled> and a refreshing aftertasteTaiyo Sake Brewery Co., Ltd."Taiyouzakari Junmai Ginjo", if you want to deepen the tasteMiyao Sake Brewing Co., Ltd."Shimeharitsuru freshly squeezed sake" is recommended. "

It may be interesting to try the sake of two sake breweries in Murakami City with the same dish and see the difference.

At Murakami's cooking and restaurants, you can enjoy a variety of salmon dishes, including grilled salmon, in late autumn when salmon run up the Miomote River.

The third thing I introduced was that you can prepare your own prosciutto using prefectural brand pork.Echigo Kawaguchi Prosciutto Ham SchoolCombination with <Prosciutto>.

"Prosciutto ham from Echigo-Kawaguchi, Nagaoka City and Nagaoka CityOnda Shuzo Co., Ltd."Maitsuru Tsuzumi88』.The rich sake quality blends with the umami and saltiness of the prosciutto. "The diced pieces in the glass in the photo can be enjoyed with a chewy texture.

The unique combination of 88% rice-polished Niigata sake with prosciutto is truly "Kinda and his wife."

Echigo Kawaguchi Prosciutto Ham School2022Years1From March, we will start manufacturing and selling prosciutto under the name of "Minna no Ham".ProsciuttoSince it goes through the drying and aging process, sales are scheduled to start around January 23, but heated ham, sausages, and rillettes will be sold from 1.

With discerning ham, sausage, and rillettes made from ingredients from Niigata prefectureI would like to enjoy exploring what Niigata sake goes well with.

Mr. and Mrs. Hideo Watanabe and Mr. and Mrs. Yukiko who experienced making prosciutto at a prosciutto cram school


The last is a combination of Western-style dishes and local sake using winter ingredients that represent Niigata.

The suggestion was "to disseminate sake culture to the world."Niigata Sake LOVERS"Mr. Tomomi Duckett, the representative.

"<Muniere of Madara's Milt> and" Hanajkan "of" Katafune "are very compatible!" In Joetsu City, which is familiar with "Katafune"Takeda Shuzo Co., Ltd. 2019A year,10"Hanajikan", which was released as an annual product for the first time in a year, is a sweet and sour sake like noble rot wine.

"The sweetness of sake enhances the richness of the milt. Furthermore, by inserting butter and balsamic vinegar in between, a new taste with an exquisite balance of sweetness, umami and acid is swelled."This is the "first" created by mariage.3The taste of. "You have to taste it and make sure!

Enjoy the marriage of <Shirako's Meuniere> and "Hanajikan"

Let's enjoy Niigata sake along with local dishes and arranged dishes using Niigata ingredients that appear in each season as well as the year-end and New Year holidays.


Photo cooperation / Zenzo Kappo, Echigo Kawaguchi Prosciutto Ham School, Tsubamesanjo Italian Bit Niigata Store, Hideo Watanabe, Hope Suzuki


                               Neil Co., Ltd.

                       "Honma Bunko Niigata Food Library"Management

                         "CushuNotebook''From NiigataR"Editor-in-chief

                                   Mariko Takahashi